Getting the right fit for men's suit
Men’s suits are one of the most important formal basic wear in any men’s wardrobe. Every man should have at least one suit. However, there are times when one needs to be officially attired like attending a formal occasion or a job interview which cannot be done without a proper suit. So it is important to know the basics in the making of a suit to make it look best on you.
First focus should be on the shoulder padding used. The preferred style should be one with soft sloping shoulders to give an overall relax, comfortable, and yet a smart look. If you have a very sloping shoulder then it would make sense to have heavier padding to level up the shoulders. Ensure the width at the shoulders provide enough room so that the fabric flows smoothly from the shoulder to the sleeves. If made too narrow, the middle deltoids are likely to bulge out at the area between the shoulders and start of the sleeves. If too wide, it can shrink the overall frame of the man. Of importance to note in mens suits fit around shoulders is taking the shoulder's relativity against the size of the head, waistline, and neck width.
Armholes and Sleeves
Armholes need enough space for easy slipping of the arms into it and moving it freely. High armholes provide a good wrap. When trying on the suit, make big hand movements to realise lifts of the whole jacket up. The armhole portion at the armpit should not be tight and irritate the armpits. There should be ample space to feel comfortable where swinging arms to avoid cracks between the armpit and the fabric. The sleeves has to end around mid wrist bone where the wrist breaks with the hand. Therefore, a general criterion in fit assessment is to do it with both arms by the sides and review where the sleeves end.
This is the portion where the collar and lapels meet extending down to the first button. Shifts in fashion trends have influenced the highs and lows of the gorge. High gorge would mean the first button is placed higher up the suit and vice versa. Having it too high would closely mimic the 1950s Beatles era while too low resembles the 1980s trend. In order to avoid your suit getting out of fashion over time, it would be recommended to stay classic in design and not get too deep into one particular fashion trend unless you can afford it, of course.
Collars should always hug around the back of your neck. There must not be any puckering or strain as it means that the fit is not right. Your collar should reveal inch of your dress shirt within. Otherwise, when you sit down the suit will shift upward and envelope the collar of your dress shirt. As mentioned before, width of the lapels is played around very often during different fashion trends in various decades.
Fasten the waist button and then place both arms by the sides. If there is any foldings or pulls at the button holes or buttons seemingly popping out, then the fit is too tight around waist. There are some jackets tapered at the waist, and still no recognition of such negative effect after fastening the waist button. But remember that the suit’s shape and wrap should be smooth and flat.
An important mens suits fit to note for in suit pants is the waist area. It should always rest on your waist and not the hips. Resting on your hips would mean that the waist is too big for you or the pants rise has to be adjusted higher. Make sure the pants rise provides a good fit at the crotch of the pants but giving enough room for comfort. Drape of the pants over your lower body should always be smooth (no bulge or horizontal creasing especially under the waist area and thigh area). The pants should float over your legs. It must not flare like hip-hop pants or hug your legs skin tight. The natural flow of your suit pants should break at the cuffs with ease. If your pants does not have cuffs, then make sure they are hemmed.
Added on: 25 November 2014|17:04:49
Category: THE MEN'S SUIT, ABC of the Men's Suit
Tags: menswear, suits, collars, shoulders, job, interview, occasion, pants, armholes, sleeves, fit, basics, gorge, waist, look
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